The first night we booked into what seemed to be a new guest house near the Eden Project. The couple who owned it I felt were townies like me, who had decided to change their lives. They were amazing hosts. They have chickens running around and one of the chickens thinks its fun to see you off from the car park. At one point she scarpered under the car. I was convinced we were going to run over our hosts' chicken. She was having great fun. That evening we ate in a little seashore village called Charlestown. It wasn't the Doc Martin village but typically Cornwallian as we found out over the next few days.
The Eden Project is quite something. Hot in that rainforest dome, but really worth seeing. My favourite was actually the outdoor area. How they have put such greenery in an old chalk quarry is amazing.
Our next stop was St Just, right down at Land's End. It's a little market town. It was the Friday that England were playing Algeria so i
t wasn't a great night for celebrating. It's an interesting place though. Just behind the market square is a social housing estate and our hotel owner reassured us about where we were parked. Just 'cause you're in Cornwall doesn't mean you can forget real life was my feeling.Land's End the next day was dramatic and quite surprising. I expected some, well, tourist attraction. There is that if you want it, but the end of Britain itself is stunning. It was drizzling and perfect for the location. Slippy underfoot, so at the cliff edges you really do need to be careful. It is great listening to the sea crashing into the rocks below though.
We headed down to Penzance that day to stay at The Lugger, a pub/inn on the seafront. This one was basic but absolutely my favourite. The view over to Michael's Mount and out to sea is just wonderful. As we approached though I did say, "I hope it's not that one with all the St George's flag bunting", well of course it was. Not too noisy though. It closed at 11.00pm and the whole place was just restful 'cause all the late-night venues are up at the back away from the seafront. Fish and chips at the quay front pub rounded off the perfect Saturday night.
We climbed Michael's Mount next day. Great views and worth taking the little boat out. Not everyone's favourite as it's practically vertical but it is called a mount after all, I'm not sure what some people expect really.
That day we headed up the west coast. Craggy and extremely different from the seaside towns. Porthcowan, Padstow, St Ives and Boscastle, the latter three are total tourist haunts and not much fun. Porthcowan has the cable museum which is fascinating and is next to the eccentric and beautiful Minette theatre. The gardens alone are beautiful and watching a show there must be incredible.
Our last night was spent up at Tintagel. Now where do I start with that. We stayed in what is reputed to be a scientologist-owned hotel - we didn't know that when we booked. The Camelot Castle is a funny old place. A big railway-style hotel blotting a beautiful place, but still, it has its attractions. The ensuites are portashowers stuck in the great big rooms, but the sunset is to die for. Just do not stay more than one night. You've done it in one night. Also forget paying to see the pile of rocks that is supposed to be Camelot, walk out on to the promontory opposite, you get a much better view.
I had heard people talk about Cornwall and how beautiful it is, but I had not expected such breathtaking and romantic moments. I am from Scotland and I never thought I would see anywhere as theatrically stunning, but I think Cornwall is it. I can't wait to go back.
